Manual conversion, clutch not disengaging

[Kerpre]

Hey guys, I have searched and searched but can’t find a similar problem to mine (since it’s a new gearbox)

So I have converted my 96 Mu 3.1 to manual, the only problem is, is that the clutch won’t FULLY Disengage. It stays on very slightly and the car wants to lurch forward unless I hold the brake.

I have used the master and slave that came with the box and I am unsure of the history or kms of any of it. Would either of these cause this problem? Bearing in mind that it bled as it should and I have no soft pedal or leaks?

I’ve used dot 4 universal fluid

There is plenty of travel on the clutch fork and I have even spaced the slave toward the fork to try and get more travel but that has made no difference.

Could I have put the clutch around the wrong way? I couldn’t 100% tell.

The clutch doesn’t slip when it’s engaged

If anyone has had this problem please chime in. I’m not against taking the box out again but I would like to avoid it if at all possible.

T.i.a

Kerry

[geeves]

siezed spiggot bearing maybe?
Is the clutch adjusted correctly. Force some more travel into it

[turnturn]

Is the clutch pedal adjusted properly, as in no excessive pedal free-play and actually pushing the master cylinder and not just the resistance of the return spring?

[Kerpre]

Ok so I assume by clutch adjustment you mean through the pedal? Then yes it is all maxed out and I cannot get any more length from the master cylinder push rod.

Clutch was aligned using a tool spigot was brand new so I doubt that will be the culprit.

When pedal is pushed, clutch fork moves a good 1-2 inches. Does that sound like enough?

[geeves]

What about the adjustment at the slave cylinder?

[Kerpre]

I was unaware that there was adjustment there, I spaced it closer to the fork if that counts?
Does the slave have a threaded rod under the boot?
Cheers Alan

Kerry

[isuzurob]

Theres no adjustment at the slave, what clutch kit did you end up using? all heavy duty clutches ive fitted require spacers behind the pivot to get them to release properly

[Kerpre]

Unsure as it came with the box :/. Does not look to be heavy duty, however no scoring and looks to be near new.
Pivot? As in the fork holder ball thing? (Very technical I know)
Cheers

Kerry

[isuzurob]

Most heavy clutches have coloured pressure plates, yes the pivot the fork goes onto, could still have air in it, isuzu are horrible to bleed

[isuzurob]

Also not sure about my, does it have the dampener on the lh mudgaurd for the clutch? They give lots of issues, just get a straight joiner and throw the dampener away

[Kerpre]

Ok so it is just a plain steel pressure plate and yes it has a dampener. I’ve bled from the dampener and the slave and I’m pretty positive it is bled properly. Although the pedal still hits the floor and I can’t fix that, no matter what I’ve tried. I have just tried a new slave and that has made no difference. I will wait for the master to show up, if that makes no difference then out with the box again. Do you remember the correct way the clutch faces? I noticed that the slime on the clutch has a long side and a short side, I put it long side facing the engine, will this make a difference?

[isuzurob]

throw that dampner away will solve it i would say, normally its long side or stepped side of the clutch plate goes towards the gearbox, flat side against the flywheel, shouldnt really matter though aslong as the springs in the clutch plate wernt hitting the flywheel bolts

[isuzurob]

so will go flywheel then flat side of clutch plate against flywheel, then stepped side fits inside pressure plate and that bolts to the flywheel, normally marked on the clutch plate flywheel side

[Kerpre]

Thanks rob I will get onto that tonight and post results. Hopefully it is just a simple as a buggered dampner

[Kerpre]

So I’ve tried a new master, I found the old one was weeping a little, Still same problem.
Where did you get your 10mm-10mm fitting to replace the dampner?
I tried repco, they only go down to 1/8th.

[isuzurob]

I used a tee fitting off a rear diff and put a ball bearing and plug in the tee so it made it straight if that makes sense, any good brake shop should have 1, taupo didnt have any so just made it work

[Kerpre]

So I have dropped the gearbox and flipped the clutch plate around. It is still doing the same thing, but now I can shift in and out of reverse with the engine running, otherwise no forward gears. It’s smooth with engine off. Any ideas?

[isuzurob]

Reverse is normally harder to get it into than the forward gears, did you bin the dampener? Did you also rebleed the clutch after putting the box back in?

[Kerpre]

Yes so I’ve chucked the dampner, and yes I did, I’m going to pressure bleed it tonight to make sure all air is out. I really can’t get my head around this one, starting to think I may have mis-matched flywheel/clutch or pressure plate. I can’t think of anything else.

[Kerpre]

Also does the slave cylinder need to be shimmed to spec or is it had against the bell housing from stock?