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engine mount removal

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engine mount removal

Postby shane0nz » Thu Jan 28, 2016 8:36 am

Hi guys, anybody tried changing engine mounts without removing engine on 4jg2 mu, im thinking probably left side, i can hear a knock when i turn engine off, and when touching throttle and revving at around about 1200 rpm either in neutral or while driving it has a vibration that runs throughout the whole vehicle, the vibration disappears if i go past or below that rev range,
i'll check out the exhaust flange when i can but this wont cause a vibration will it?

thanks guys appreciate any experience or help
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby geeves » Thu Jan 28, 2016 2:07 pm

The good news is the left one is the easy one. Its also the one that gets it if the injector pump leaks.
To test it get a crowbar or tyre lever and being carefull not to pinch brake lines etc take the wheel off and the rubber cover on the inner guard then lever the mount up against the top of the upper suspension mount. It will move a bit but if you can lift it so you can see through between the ruuber part of the mount and the metal bit it needs changing.
you will need to support the engine from above. I have used a cable puller to a garage rafter in the past to slightly lift that side of the engine. then through the inner guard undo the 2 bolts that hold it to the chassis and the 4 bolts that hold the entire assembly to the block. On the bench unbolt the mount from the bracket that held it to the block. Refit in reverse. You can undo the 2 bolts that hold the mount to the bracket on the block but trust me its not the way to do it (first one I did this way 2 hours to undo each bolt and 2 hours to do each up afterwards)
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby shane0nz » Thu Jan 28, 2016 7:28 pm

Awesome geeves thank you for the clear instructions, now heres hoping it is exactly that, i'll let you know as soon as i get onto it. :D
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby shane0nz » Wed Feb 03, 2016 7:01 pm

:oops: dammit i think im getting more movement on the RH side, so i shoved a piece of wood in there, and while running if i grab the wood and hold it steady it sounds much quieter, i know how much of a pain that alternator is so im hoping i wont need to touch that, getting underneath to undo the 4 motor mount bolts seems slim because the diff head is in the way. im hoping after a few beers and long extentions i can get that RH mount out. To top it off all 4 upper bushes are stuffed. $180 +freight for 4 bushes from one stop auto shop... anyone of cheaper source?
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby geeves » Thu Feb 04, 2016 5:11 am

All auto shops should have them but Whakatane only has Repco?
Might be a trip to Tauranga
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby shane0nz » Thu Feb 04, 2016 9:31 am

yep good ol repco, holden dealer priced 220 and sounded like he ran to auckland to get them, 180 will do as while looking at this blimmen LH mount seems quite crooked as though it could be touching metal to metal so looks like more overtime for me :roll:
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby geeves » Thu Feb 04, 2016 10:44 am

If we are talking the 4 bushes in the upper suspension mount and your current ones are factory rubber you need a press to get them out. Not a pretty job at all
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby shane0nz » Thu Feb 04, 2016 10:59 am

yea had the lower bushes done a few years back, cost me a fortune from "the specialist" upper bushes are stuffed now as well as engine mount/mounts
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby geeves » Thu Feb 04, 2016 4:06 pm

Worst part time wise is taking the arms off. Dont loose track of the shims behind the mount. Then take the arms to your friendly local garage.
Would be wise to have a wheel alignment once complete
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby isuzurob » Thu Feb 04, 2016 5:58 pm

after market rubber bushes for top a arms are 35 nz each and nolathane are around 180 for 4 but are rubbish and dont last, bushes do suck to do and its very easy to damage the arm and bend it
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby shane0nz » Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:08 pm

Yep sweet will do guys, got the removal planned to the t, i'd better start a new thread :D
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby isuzurob » Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:38 pm

getting them out isnt hard heat and cut with the hacksaw, i made a tool to put them back together without bending arm, i have done 7 trucks now, still as hard as the first one
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby shane0nz » Sun Feb 07, 2016 9:40 am

Cheers guys just changed the LH engine mount and the nasty vibration has gone, will still change the RH side $95 though as there is still a bit of movement on engine when shutting off, noticed a noisey wheel bearing, tried packing it with grease and noticed a couple small gouge marks like pitting on inside of rotors so order 2 new rotors at $138 incl. post. bearings $116 each+ post, whoa, can't find cheaper bushes than $180
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby isuzurob » Sun Feb 07, 2016 3:30 pm

Those prices all seem expensive, and your brake rotors wouldve been fine, the bush prices i gave were from 2 odd weeks ago as i did 2 top a arms, your mu will be like new and drive amazing
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Re: engine mount removal

Postby shane0nz » Sun Feb 07, 2016 7:12 pm

:D yep im hoping to get a few more years out of it, 1 rotor i noticed what maybe a straight crack or split, not even sure how deep which runs across the face even and feels slightly warped, i've been a bit slack in this department the bushes have been knocking for years
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