4JG2-T Water Leak

[turnturn]

I've been chasing an intermittent water leak on my UCS69 for a while.
I initially thought/hoped that it was just a hose, but couldn't find any problems.
Then I thought it was the water pump so set about pulling things apart.
Then I thought that it might be the thermostat housing or the alloy casting that this bolts too. But no.
After pulling the ancillaries and the cambelt cover off i didn't find what i was expecting which was that the water pump was leaking.
It seems to be leaking from between the engine block and an alloy casting/spacer/cover. Has anybody else had a water leak here?
I'm not really looking forward to fixing this. As far as I can tell pretty much everything will have to come off the engine to get to this

[pig75]

Just put a tin of leak sealer in it

[Blondini]

No way around it mate, Your going to have to strip it down and fix it before it gets worse.

[turnturn]

I've just been out to the garage and re-assembled everything I needed to, so I could start the engine and have a good look with the belts and covers out of the way. Bloody thing leaks like a sieve. Bugger. I'm not looking forward to this!

[geeves]

Looking at the manual a product called Ironite comes to mind. Its in an orange bottle.
If Im looking at things correctly that plate separates the block from the timing gear so like you say everything has to come off.
Ironite forms a hard sealing compound in the presence of air and hot water. Its designed for cracked heads.

[turnturn]

Yep, had considered Ironite or something similar but don't think this sort of product would work here.
They are usually for hairline cracks in a single type of metal aren't they? This leak is between iron and aluminium with the gap of a failed gasket to contend with.
I took another photo of it when idling.

[geeves]

the correct way is to strip it down. The good news is you dont need to worry about how to fill in this weekend.

[turnturn]

Has anyone succesfully removed their sump with the engine still fitted to the vehicle (94 Mu)?
Had a bit of a look last night and looks like it might be a bit tight to get out.

[Blondini]

You mite get a bit more room if you undune the engine mounts and jacked it up under the bell housing

[pig75]

The oil pump sits low in the sump. You won't get it off

[geeves]

even by unbolting the front xmember?

[pig75]

The front diff, cross-member,steering drag link, it might come out

[turnturn]

If you remove the small part of the sump can you get to the oil pump and remove it, then take the other part of the sump off?

[pig75]

I thought the 3.1's had a solid sump?
I think you will still need to take the diff out

[turnturn]

The sump on my 4JG2-T (3.1) is a two piece item.
It consists of a large aluminium casting and a smaller sheet metal part.
As far as I can tell the 4JB1-T (2.8) is the same or similar construction.
Both motors use about the same amount of oil during an oil change as well.

Back onto the original topic, I think I'm going to pull the motor out rather than drop the front diff etc.
My rear crankshaft seal could do with being replaced also

[ECsarginson]

I have a question. My 3.1 4gj2-t also has had the intermittent water leak, and found the problem we have to replace a gasket between the block and the front plate, as soon as we released the water pump, to replace it, it didint reseal and eventually started leaking thru between, thought the water was coming from the thermostat housing from above, but that wasnt the case after we put a new gasket on the thermostat housing.
Now have the front plate off which is behind the cambelt, got it off but cant get it back on without lowering the sump, sump not so easy to get undone, that is where we are up to at this stage.
Any suggestions please.

[turnturn]

I also initially thought that my leak was from the thermostat cover area.
I ended up pulling my engine out. I was concerned that I wouldn't get a good sump seal again if I just cracked it a little to replace the front cover. The combination of the two location dowels, the crankshaft seal, the pockets in the sump and alloy front plate for the rubber seal, all add up to trouble.
It may be possible with the right sealant and maybe refitting a new crankshaft seal after the plate is back on?
If you wanted to drop the sump in situ I'm pretty sure you would have to drop the front diff out of the way. Maybe different in a Bighorn though. My experience has been with a Mu.

[bighorndog]

im a deisel mechanic just finished doing this job on my bighorn it is possible to remove cover without dropping sump when you go to reinstal cover remove dowel pins and drive them in once cover is instaled
should save you a bit of time but its still a prick of a job

[turnturn]

I still haven't got around to fixing this yet. The engine is on the engine stand in the garage and the Mu is sulking in the driveway.