what would you do, think i may of bought a lemon

[yrrab]

hi
After finally get my 2.8 rodeo ute on the road, i have a problem
I found out the injector pump was on the way of getting a rebuild due to starting problems and lots of air in the return line
But now after getting around to tighten up my alternator belt my revs have dropped a bit around 200rpm sometimes.
if i use the a/c, lights and power steering it struggles alot on idle all thow mine doesn't have the a/c idle throttle adjuster on the side of the injector pump like Iv seen some photos on hear.
When the engine is just idleing with nothing else on it still seems smooth and when i drive it still goes good
What to do now?
Would this proble be related to the leaking injector pump or could it be more serious?
Would it be a good time to do a compression test befor spending money on the injector pump?
Or is some else causing this?
All help is well appreciated
Barry

[geeves]

sounds like the idle speed adjustment could use a tweek.
A injector pump rebuild is a lot of money. I would want to take everything into account to make sure I was spending that money wisely so I would do a compression or leak down test.

[yrrab]

I had made a mistake in my post
It only dropped by about 50rpm if that
its when the ac, lights and power steering on full lock it may drop by nearly 200 rpm
When there not in use the idle return to 800rpm
when i get all of the air out of the lines it seems to start ok

I was thinking about a test didn't want it ending up being something else aswell.

Barry

[geeves]

you would be surprised how much power is used holding the steering at full lock. If a fan belt is going to slip its just as you hit full lock or when you turn sharply

[iananita]

What km's has the motor done?

[geeves]

http://www.taubmans.com.au/public/colou ... r=Calabash

now Im in trouble

[turnturn]

yrrab -
I wouldn't be too worried about your idle speed dropping under the circumstances/load that you mention unless it is stalling.
Can you retrofit the a/c idle controller from another vehicle?
Can you just bump up your idle speed a little bit (or do you have an auto)?

Re getting a compression test....it's never a bad idea to know this information.

Geeves -
your last post with a link......Huh?

[yrrab]

not too worried about the idle speed
but was consern it was linked to bad compression

now after getting all the air out of the lines its not starting 1st turn like it used to befor i tighten up the alternator.
pumped the crap out of the hand pump over the last 4 weeks it has a leak in the sharft
only have about 10% of fuel comming out of the return line when it slows down after i stop the engine seems alot to me
when i pump the hand pump up tight i can hear a slight hissing sound comming from the injector pump but for a short 2 sec but it doesnt leak
the small nut and thread came out of the back of what i think is called solenoid timer on the injector pump it looked like it was glued in but i have just pushed it back in for now.

Im going to get a compression test done in about 2 weeks
Its done 235000 kms
barry

[geeves]

If you follow the link it is a paint company. If you activate the flash in the middle you get a picture of a room painted in a nice lemon yellow

[yrrab]

are you trying to tell me to paint it that colour

[geeves]

no I was having one of those days

[yrrab]

after doing alot of googling
did the front seal on injection pump myself, has fix alot of the problems
still get very small amout of air in diesel going into the ip carnt see any in the return
finding it hard to find out where it is comming from
had to fill the tank up as notice air gets into the line when tank is low
im getting white smoke on start ups after sitting overnight hmm
i got a $35 egt gauge
have found it hard to find where to install
can i install directly after turbo (under the heat sheld) or after heat shead shelds?

[yrrab]

I advance the timing
the lines on the ip where retarded for some reason
fixed the white smoke
have to refine the timing
very small amount of blue now when i start it alot better than all the white i was getting
I still wasn't shore about drilling into the exhaust pipe under the heat shield so i put my egt gauge after the heat shield

[yrrab]

i have replaced the water separator as notice the valves in it not working 100% all the time
starting even better

notice higher egt after towing
retarded the timing a very small amount has cool abit
see how fuel economy goes still playing with it
prob should do injectors

think i worked out while my timing was so far retarted
back when i was having lots of problems i was playing around with the cold starting device and endded with the thread comming away from the plastic thing
consern that this would change my timing as it was broken i replace it. even when i made it come on there was hardly any diference
I took apart the old one and the was every small rocks in it after the filter near the out let holes
spoke to a diesel mec he told me they can jam on even in brisbane where there not getting use.
i think mine old one was jaming on advancing the timing so someone has retarded the timing that much to compensate it

[yrrab]

hope this work its taken me awhile to work out
but this what i followed to replace the front seal

[yrrab]

mmm there is more than that

[yrrab]

If you choose to replace your drive seal without disassembling pump completely here are a few tips.
Using a medium screw driver and bench grinder create a tool similar to the one picture below. The orange lines show the screw driver shape before grinding.
Using a hammer gently tap the screw driver between the rubber part of the seal and the pump drive shaft. Care must be used to avoid damaging the main pump Aluminum Housing. (Picture A)
Gently push the screw driver down thus prying up on the seal. If the seal appears to be to be bending instead of pulling out you may need to tap it slightly again or move the screw driver to a new position and try from there. You may have to pry from several sides before the seal will be removed (Picture B)
With some luck you will have the results found in (Picture C)
Clean seal area. Lubricate both inside and outside areas of the new seal. Using the hammer gently tap the seal in with a perfect sized deep well socket. Seal needs to be kept level as it enters the pump.(Picture D). New seal (rubber coated) may be taller that the older seal so the seal will be flush with the pump housing once installed.
Please Note: Your fuel injection pump is a very technical devise. Not only does it control your engine it also protects it as well. Repairing your pump yourself is a great way to save money. However, extra care must be used as serious pump and or engine damage can occur. A person repairing their own injection pump is assuming their own risk.

I found this on ebay of all places
is taken me approx 2hr to work out how to post it
im not a motor machanic

veseal-1.jpg

veseal-2.jpg

veseal-3.jpg

veseal-4.jpg

[yrrab]

yeh
slowly learning

[yrrab]

Can anyone tell me
What the top hose water temp should be? when the engine is at normal op temp
Please

Barry

[geeves]

thermostat fully opens at 95C so this would be the target temperature