dropping the front diff.

[julesran]

hey guys,

just wondering whats involved in droping the front diff 10 or 20 mm. to help with the cv's

an info would be great thanks.

[mulover]

Three ways,

1, you can put spacers in between the mounts to lower the brackets. You will need longer bolts and you have to cut a bit out of the drivers side mount (i think) to clear the steering link. Personally i don't like this way as you have to cut a part of a mount, (also because I didn't think of it!!!)

2, You take out your diff, take the axles mounts off - a bit of work but a good time to change seals, and bearings/check cv's/etc/etc. weld on a bit of plate to the bottom of the mount (about 5mm more than the amount you are lowering it by to be safe) then make a template of all the holes in the mount. draw a line across the mount at the top of the template as a reference line. (best to use a centre puch to mark this line cause chaulk/pen will wipe off then your stuffed!! fill up all the holes, you will need to cut a disk for the big one, be sure all the welding is good and solid. Now grind all the welding off nice and smooth/flat, finish with a sanding disc on a flat backing pad.
Now position the template on the mount 10-20mm lower than the line, mark the holes and drill new ones. You will need a hole saw or a big drill for the big hole. remove any burrs and check the mount to make sure its nice and flat, then assemble everything.

3, start the same as 2, take out diff, mounts etc. Cut from the bottom of the mount as close to the sides as you can, up till your above the top hole. Now cut squarely across 10-15mm above the top holes to separate the mount into 2. Tack the piece with the holes back in 10-20mm lower, ensuring its nice and straight and true. Now you have to cut a strip to fill in the gap at the top, and probably some little bits for down the bottom too. Now fully weld it all back together, trying to keep it straight and flat. Grind off welds and finish with snading disc. Check the mount is still flat, straighten if required.
reasemble and your all done.

I like method 2 over 3 as there is less welding and your not reling on welds to hold your diff in, although method 2 requires drilling and stuff.

There are probably other ways of doing this, like cutting it in different places, etc, but thats up to you. If you are going to do it, drop it 20mm, its the lowest you can go (I have 3 stuffed cv's to prove it).

Hope this is some help and makes a littel sense, I should have taken photos when I did it.

[julesran]

thanks mulover,

great help, now i just need to find the time to do it.

[bignuts]

Hey, I have dropped my diff 25mm with no problem..... Why did you mention not over 20mm? Was it because under full rebound there is not enough room for the CV as you have made it longer by lowering it? Or have you adjusted your top bump stops and this caused the problem in conjunction with lowering the diff. Thanks David

[ONO2HI]

SAS it??

[mulover]

Bignuts (love the name!!!), I have cut both my top and bottom bump stops in half to gain travel. I Dropped mine 35mm for a start and both the cv's poped out of their housings. Reduced it to only 20mm and have had no problems since. 25mm would probably be fine even with cut bump stops.

ONO2HI, SAS is the answer, and with more and more people doing it, the easier it seems to be!!

[daisy]

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Heres some pictures to go with the above advice i think it was 25mm but no lower CV boot very close to lower arm
V out both sides, keep it cool so doesnt wrap and dont weld it if you cant bet you and your familys lifes on the welds!
dont no how legal it is so check but i got mine certified
Ive had mine like this for about two years now and algood

[mulover]

Perfect pics of method 3. The only reason why I dont like this method is because of all the welding, but I had the gear to re-drill the holes, which most people probably haven't.

[dasnoboarder]

Getting some plans together to do this mod, method 3, I'm thinking 25mm drop - Seeing as the Darlington Offroad brackets are 1.5", but Mulover had problems with 35mm.
I have 50mm front suspension lift.

Will a 25mm drop clear the front crossmember? Or is cutting & welding needed there too?

My workshop manual has a whole list of parts you need to take out to remove the front axle.
Just wondering if anyone can tell me what the easiest way to get the brackets in and out is?

Cheers,
Andy.

[geeves]

to get at the brackets the book is correct. Sorry
Only shortcuts are for cv joints only

[geeves]

remember the blackboard from your other post

[dasnoboarder]

Cheers Geeves,
Bad luck...

Haha that blackboard was a good one.

[daisy]

Getting some plans together to do this mod, method 3, I'm thinking 25mm drop - Seeing as the Darlington Offroad brackets are 1.5", but Mulover had problems with 35mm.
I have 50mm front suspension lift.

Will a 25mm drop clear the front crossmember? Or is cutting & welding needed there too?

My workshop manual has a whole list of parts you need to take out to remove the front axle.
Just wondering if anyone can tell me what the easiest way to get the brackets in and out is?

Cheers,
Andy.

Front crossmember needs a little cut and tuck im missing the photo that shows the welding inside the crossmember to tie it all together and give it strength

[dasnoboarder]

Thanks Daisy,

I might have to leave this mod for the next round, due to having to modify the crossmember as well.

My plan was to get some diff brackets from the wrecker, drop them and get them OK'd by the certifier with my body lift - then put them in when I have time.

Looks like I'll see how my CV's hold up - haven't broken one yet!

Cheers,
Andy

[cyberbeej]

broke mine today, need to lower front diff now.
how far can i lower it before the crossmember gets in the way?

[haven]

without having a look under my mu im a little confused as to whats being done in all three steps exactly but just toclarify:

when exactly should dropping the front diff be carried out?
im running 50mm body lift and planning on running a 2 inch suspension lift as well soon with my 33" tyres as soon as i can fit them, will any of these require dropping the diff?

changine wheel diameters shouldnt affect cv angles, etc at all and as the body lift simply lifts the chassis its really only changing clearance, so its really only the 2" suspension lift thats making any difference right?

[geeves]

2 inch suspension lift is the only thing that affects cv angles = true
2 inch not enough to worry about diff lowering = true
33 inch tyres do put more strain on cvs but most people dont break too many Its more about how you drive

[98Rodeo]

geeves is right as always just dont give it heaps when you are lifting wheels as cv's will go crunch when they land, and not too many berries on full lock

[MARKx4]

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Heres some pictures to go with the above advice i think it was 25mm but no lower CV boot very close to lower arm
V out both sides, keep it cool so doesnt wrap and dont weld it if you cant bet you and your familys lifes on the welds!
dont no how legal it is so check but i got mine certified
Ive had mine like this for about two years now and algood

Is this exactly what the calmini arms do? If so wouldnt it be better for people that arn't conferdent in welding can do?

Or am i totally wrong as the calmini arms are upper arms not bottom arms?

Can you buy arms to do this for those not completly conferdent?

Mark

[geeves]

The calmini arms are slightly longer than the originals and they change the angle of the top ball joint. This is effectively what a ball joint flip does except you dont reallign the ball joint with a flip.
It does solve the loss of travel and does allow proper wheel alignment but does nothing to help the cv angles