90km/hr Vibration - CV Inner/Outer

[BroNZ]

geez geeves you make it sound so easy - I'll have a crack this weekend if the weather is good.

[geeves]

no harder than an oil filter although it will take longer. Whos pressing the bearing on for you?

[BroNZ]

Haven't sourced anyone else but isuzu - Do you have someone in mind geeves?
Had to have photographic memory for pulling apart the brake assy - fortunately I also read the bit in the manual stating the hand brake lever was on the inside too so was able to put things back in place after. Anyways time would only allow me to pull apart the rear RHS to check things out - why I didn't do the LHS first i dunno. So shifted the 1/2 shaft out and it appeared to be ok- it wasn't bent, the splines weren't worn and there was no water or signs of rust. There was some clear oil inside where the hub slides into the axle housing and I can only guess it came from the wheel bearing? there was maybe a 1mm gap or less between the retainer and the wheel bearing when I swung off the shaft from side to side. The bearing ran smooth when spun and showed no signs of play internally. So yep seemed a simple task to remove and replace. Once I 've pulled andinspected the LHS, I'll cut the retainers off and send both 1/2 shafts in to get the bearing replaced. hopefully that'll be cheaper.

[BroNZ]

So got the LH rear 1/2 shaft out and it was very easy.

Many thanx geeves for the method for pulling apart seems so ez now - could have done it in 30mins if I'd realised the handbrake was still on.

Pulled the 1/2 shaft and out came abit of diff oil too. Reading www sites suggest the breather line for the diff was blocked - sure was, the wee elbow and cap was blocked and the hose was clear so just pointed the hose to the ground and cable tied to brake line bracket ensuring nothing could drain back into the diff. Seems the elbow is rusted out.
The wheel bearing clearly has some play - much much more than the RHS. Shaft and splines were all good.
Got priced for the collars at $75 each from Waikatobearings better than $135.

[BroNZ]

WHOA - i've just realised my mistake with the breather hose better send it up!!! and maybe add more in case I do go water crossing and forget all about it.

[BroNZ]

Got diff oil on the RHS now after the change to the breather hose??
The rear wheel bearings got replaced by Hydratech Engineering for $80 for both incl fitting replacement bearings and seals.
Got done in half a day by Brad and they got a 30 or 40ton press so no wonder he made it sound so ez.
Just gotta finda a tool to pull the seals out of the axle b4 they thin out my oil in the new bearings.
Not much difference in the old bearings but one every now and then with a bit of downwards pressure a lump is felt. I think the rear RHS is still good so might save it.
I had tried cutting the collars out with a dremel but couldn't get to the inside housing to finish it off. Didn't need to, Brad's shop had the press to do it.
The collars for $70 each from Gil at Waikato Bearings and lucky he's a good guy cos I must've dropped the rear brake pinsx2 and he sends me an email asking if I had lost any - yup must've flipped the shaft on its end and they fell out - cheers Gil for not throwing them out.
Any way Vibration still present but not as bad - it creeps in at 90 and almost gone at 100kph. When I'm slowing down its shakes more coming down to 90kph.
Feels much better though.....so one more wheel bearing to go....Front RHS.
And then a redo on the wheel balance and alignment asking to focus on out of round tyre or wheel this time @ HN Speedy and Lube - suggested by a good mate at Allquip.

[BroNZ]

Well all wheel bearings replaced vibration still exists - swapped front tyres with rear and vibration still the same at 90kmhr. Front RH bearing was buggered and purple from heat. I wonder what next.

[geeves]

can you describe the vibration in detail.
We are now looking at unusual things
A stone caught between the body can cause all sorts of vibrations as it transmits those normal vibrations from the chassis past the rubber mounts to the body. A bent side step will do the same thing
A broken or missing exhaust bracket also does the same.
A buckled wheel can do strange things. Swapping a set of rims with a friend is the only way to check this
Some mud tyres vibrate esspecially if the pressure is wrong
Gearbox and engine faults can cause vibration
Some vibrations are normal

[BroNZ]

Ok vibration appears to be at the front - and since the RH front wheel bearing was clearly the worst I suspect that is the area.
I do believe the hi kms travelled recently made the bearings appear purplish from the heat.
The front vibrates left and right and increases in speed as vehicle speed increases until its a shimmer. Noticeable on a smooth road but hard to find in Hamilton.
The front bullbar starts swinging L & R too and its in time with the vibration. The driver seat doesn't vibrate as much but gives me a nice tickle.
When driving beside a median barrier the shimmer is audible with the drivers window down. The passenger side - nothing.
The front auto hubs are unlocked since the front cv' aren't moving in rear 2wd and I could spin the RH Front hub without spinning the CV axle.
Could it be the hub moving in and out from lack of needle bearings....Geeves bro you pasted a link in the past so could this be a likely cause? http://clubisuzu.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=3420
I've considered engine and gearbox mounts and exhaust brackets but the hi shimmer sound at speed I think really leads me to asking why are my tyres doing this.
I can't hear any graunching sounds from those areas while driving and my tyres are each at 34psi.
My wheels have rotated around from front to rear incl with the new spare and weren't picked up for out of roundness at the first wheel balance and alignment.
Couldn't get them wheel balanced today - saturday 1/2 days.

[geeves]

Up front the only rotating components are the tyres rims hub assembly and brake disc. You appear to have eliminated tyres with the front rear swap. Have you had the discs machined? Is there a possibility of a bent wheel stud or wheel mounting flange. You will need a dial guage to test these.
Otherwise your looking at front suspension components although Im not convinced. Shock absorbers worn can cause strange things and your model is the one that had an issue of a crack in the chassis that showed as a strange noise

[BroNZ]

Cheers Geeves. The wheel studs and wheel mounting flange are not bent otherwise the rim/s I guess would not be able to sit centered and flush. Nope no discs machined. I did notice when jacking up the front there was some shift of the Front RH wheel from ground to off the ground - but not sure if this is pointing to the cause. Gonna have to jack the Front LH to compare. I had thought of bushes and ball joints as well b - so yes Geeves I think the hub assy/cv axle is where I may need to look into since these are rotating units and are associated with speed and so I could be looking at replacing the thrust washer and needle bearing and look at the ball joints. I just went back to my earlier posts and recall that shims were added for the same Front RH side for wheel alignment! I feel something good (bad) might happen - fingers crossed.

[geeves]

needle bearing and thrust washer only act on the cv shaft. We have excluded that and these components at the same time.
A long time ago I had a hillman avenger with the same problem. Eventually sold it unfixed.
The wheel moving in sounds normal.
I would get a couple of bits of 100x50 timber and make a frame like a small saw horse with one side of the top bar a littlt longer and at a hight where you can place this next to a wheel with it jacked off the ground. Use this as a reference point while rotating the wheel by hand Do the same against the tyre. Any scew in the hub or rim will show a lot easier with a reference point close to the tyre. Do this on all 4 wheels but like you I think the problem is up front

[BroNZ]

I managed to get a partial look in to the rear of the hub and the needle bearing. The cv axle displayed clean grease and grease lines from the wee needle bearings. The CV Axle also appeared to sit flush and tight against the hub and the circlip for the auto locking hub was in place and there was no sideways play. Yes in the back of my mind I'm thinkin I may have 3 or 4 buggered tyres & or rims so will set something up as you suggest thanks geeves.

[mudslinger]

do you have any play in the tie rod ends/drag link ball joints? they can also cause a shimmy

[BroNZ]

They are pretty tight thanks mudslinger but I guess one would have to dismantle each item to really see if there is any worn parts

[geeves]

wof check should pick up these items. Besides I have a fair bit of play in one of my tie rods but no vibration.

[BroNZ]

Too true geeves - so I went over them again the ball joints are all tight and the tie rods too. No clunking or play or squeaking evident after lifting each side on the lower control arms and lifting each wheel upndown. But... as i went round to check the LH Front wheel there appeared to be some movement when pushing and pulling on the wheel. So i reached around to check the axle and it partially slid out when i pulled on the cup. Bugger me opened up the auto hub and to my surprise the circlip wasn't in place. Found it stuck to the grease on the inside of the autohub casing. So it appears some poor workmanship has occurred and failed to properly seat the circlip. Now thats repaired the shimmer has gone - as the tyres aren't ringing a high note anymore, but the wobble is still there at around 90kmhr and slowly disappears from 105kmhr - more noticeable when slowing down.
A wheel balance and alignment is on the cards since the RH Front had a shim added on its last alignment, I can't recall how many shims was added to determine the cause and thats why I rechecked the ball joints cos the WOF & wheel bearing replacement was done at the same place. Maybe something big was hit and knocked things out but nothing appears to have been hit or bent. Now I m thinking I should've moved the steering to full lock at either end but I don't get steering wheel wobble.
Haven't checked for out of round wheel yet but didn't really notice anything on the sidewalls for damage or with the tread part on each front tyre - but will do something to confirm.
All the bushes I could see all have wee cracks thru them due to age. The investigation continues........

[BroNZ]

Well found out the ball joints have been modified - they're fitted under the control arms. No spacers are fitted on the rear springs. I noticed the driveshaft is angled downwards (not excessively IMO) on to the diff flange but didn't consider it being an issue until now. So I'll adjust the torsion bars aiming to lower the front suspension a wee bit to level off (if possible) the driveshaft from gbox to diff . The rear wheels to wheel arch does look a little less than the front. Or am i losing my marbles

[slightlydodgy]

That's a very common mod -pretty much a must do with any decent torsion bar lift Mine was lifted to almost the max in this way and never vibrated on the road because of it. This also doesn't affect the front driveshaft angle as the front diff is mounted to the chassis not like a sas set up. What Geeves is saying is the flanges at each end of the driveshafts need to be parallel ie the they need to be the same angle in relation to the ground or chassis etc If the shackles have been lengthen it changes the angle of the drive flange on the diff in relation to the flange at the gearbox end. Another possibility is a bent driveshaft -I had an old hq that vibrated between 70 and 90 ks that turned out to have a slight tweak in the shaft

[BroNZ]

Ahhhh - yes missed the parallel point with the flanges - Shackles? I couldn't see any as I have springs. Sorry no bent driveshaft that would've been picked up at the balance shop. So is my mod missing a mod for the rear end? Cheers for dropping in slightlydodgy.