My %#$* MU

by **MrRevhead** » Sat May 05, 2012 9:28 am

Modifications and Accessories:

Suspension: 2" awaiting installation
Body Lift: 2" awaiting installation
Tyres/Wheels: 32" Mud tyres
Traction Aids: nil
Communications/GPS: My cell phone!
Dual Batteries: nil
Engine: 2.8, intercooled
Exhaust: 2.5" dump pipe in to 2" (temporary)
Sound system: Panasonic head unit, fusin and sony component speakers
External: Bonnet scoop
Others:

Bought for $1000 from Blenheim with a huge oil leak and a few other minor WOF issues.
Drove fine, no smoke etc.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7080/6997 ... 5fbf_c.jpg

Plans are 2" suspension lift, 2" body lift, tyres and fun!

by **MrRevhead** » Sat May 05, 2012 9:34 am

So, decided first course of action, do the cambelt and fix the oil leak from the front crank seal.

This is where the @#*@ comes in.....
Remove bits and pieces then try and undo the crank bolt. Cannot move it by hand. Nothing unusual with that. SO did the dodgy flick the key trick.
heard a crank and the power bar hit the ground. Sweet, undone.
But no..... Head of bolt snapped off leaving the shank in the crank :cry:

The crank pulley slid off very easy, here's why:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8024/6974 ... 4d3e_c.jpg

Been moving around on the key way

It had a rattle on start up which I thought was the viscous fan hub as there is a little play in that, seems it was this.

by **MrRevhead** » Sat May 05, 2012 9:38 am

So, local towie did me a deal for a cashie and dropped it off at the local engine builders for them to extract the bolt.
Got a call yesterday asking if I'd like to come see where they are at.
They had drilled a hole through the bolt, applied heat, used various chemicals, broken a easy out, drilled two little holes near the side of the bolt, and used another easy out and more heat.
And it has not shown any hint of moving :cry:

It's now back in my drive with the last easy out stuck in it.
They think the last time it was out, it was replaced with the incorrect bolt and a rattle gun used on it. The threads were not quite correct and the heat from using a rattle gun may have semi welded it in there.
So, plan now is to pull the engine out and replace the crank. Budget probably not going to run to a full rebuild so will just be crank and bearings.

by **MrRevhead** » Sat May 05, 2012 3:30 pm

So, spent the arvo unhooking and disconnecting. Like most Jap makers Mr Isuzu sometimes makes things tricky!
Turns out this MU used to be an auto, and I suspect it's had an engine change too, the intake manifold looks different to pics I've seen on here.
Got everything unplugged, tomorrow I'll crack the rest of the bell housing bolts and undo the engine mounts, looks like the turbo has to come off to do the drivers side?
really hoping I can get it out with out removing the gearbox as I'm doing it in my drive and gear box will be a major pain to get out.

by **geeves** » Sun May 06, 2012 5:49 pm

Im really hpeing that wasnt a private sale? If a dealer it wasnt fit for purpose so money back but private sale bad luck sorry.
If the rest of the vehicle is good you still got a bargain so throwing a couple of thou into a second hand motor will see a great car. There was a 4jb1 on trademe last week for under 1000 but it sounded dodgy.

by **MrRevhead** » Sun May 06, 2012 7:32 pm

Was off trademe, cost me $1000 with a few minor wof issues and huge oil leak. So yeah stlil worth putting some cash into it, that way I will know more of the conditon of the parts etc.
I'm going to replace the crank only, not the complete engine.

by **geeves** » Mon May 07, 2012 4:47 pm

in your gmail account is a copy of the engine manual

by **MrRevhead** » Mon May 07, 2012 4:56 pm

Awesome, thanks for that 8-)

by **MrRevhead** » Sat May 12, 2012 2:48 pm

So got the engine out today. Couple of pics of the problem:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7218/7180 ... af63_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8163/7180 ... 07f3_o.jpg

Does this look like a MU manifold?
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7221/7180 ... 10af_o.jpg

Getting it out with gear box in place was no hassle at all really. Used a jack under the box and engine crane, eased them both up until box was near touching the body and slid the motor forward.
Easier than I expected it to be actually. Putting it in and lining it up could be fun though :lol:

by **geeves** » Sat May 12, 2012 3:48 pm

Do you still have the head of the bolt? Would love to see a picture of the head ie showing the markings. Im thinking 4.8 not 8.8 or greater

by **MrRevhead** » Sat May 12, 2012 4:08 pm

Yeah somewhere. I'll dig it out tomorrow.
It is a proper crank bolt. Large flanged head. Looks just like a Toyota one

MY YouTube · by **pig75** » Sat May 12, 2012 5:49 pm

MrRevhead wrote:Does this look like a MU manifold?

7180077416_3e248310af_o.jpg

No thats a early jackaroo/Bighorn

by **MrRevhead** » Sat May 12, 2012 6:01 pm

Interesting. That's what the gearbox is from apparantly.

by **MrRevhead** » Sun May 13, 2012 5:27 pm

Is there any difference in the spec between MU and Bighorn versions?
Also wondering about the clutch, going to put a new one in and if it has Bighorn engine and box is the clutch the same?

by **MrRevhead** » Mon May 14, 2012 12:50 pm

Clutch is the same p/n for 2.8 bighorn and MU. So won't be an issue there.
Just have to find a crank now

by **geeves** » Mon May 14, 2012 3:41 pm

Early bighorn was gear drive but yours is belt drive. Most of the engines around are belt drive Im guessing the manifolds have been swapped but I did here a long time ago of someone swapping between gear and belt drive on there engine. Cant remember which way or the result. Perhaps now we know the result.

by **MrRevhead** » Mon May 14, 2012 5:49 pm

Interesting, I did hear from the wreckers that there was gear drive versions.
Hopefully I've finished finding surprises with this thing!

by **MrRevhead** » Sat Jun 02, 2012 3:41 pm

Got the crank out today. They keyway is knackered so no chance of helicoiling it.
All the bearings etc look pretty good and nothing nasty on the inside. Going by the sealant I't been apart before. At least the sump and front cover have been off.
Now to find a crank....

by **MrRevhead** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 8:46 pm

Right, non turbo cranks are very different.
Possibly cast (was darkish and stopped looking after the next bit)
And they do not have the same counter weights as turbo cranks.
non turbo looks like:
http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00KC ... -6BD1-.jpg

turbo crank is more like this:
http://images.gasgoo.com/MiMwMDRfMDA0Iz ... g-4be1.jpg

So wrecker is hunting for a good crank for me

by **slightlydodgy** » Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:56 am

Just to add to your woes it might pay to check that someone hasn't slapped a turbo on a naturally aspirated motor I came across a bloke who bought a rodeo off trade me that had been built this way and when he started to us it for farm work and 4wd trips the results weren't nice (I bought a lot of parts off him in the end

)

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