My %#$* MU

[isuzurob]

The butterfly in the intake pipe is vaccum operated at works when you shut the engine down to prevent vibration etc, waste of time i pulled mine out and alloy welded the holes up

[MrRevhead]

Well I've actually done some work on it
Got the sump on and the ex manifold. Which has been skimmed and drilled for EGT gauge.
Taken some pics, will upload in the next few days.
test fitted the 2.5" down pipe and took some pics of where it sits in relation with the 2.8 and 3.1 oil coolers. I saw someone asking somewhere why you can't use the 2.8 one.
Pics show why very clearly it will never fit!

[MrRevhead]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8187/8081 ... 49a0_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8193/8081 ... df42_c.jpg

Those pics show why you can't use the 2.8 oil cooler. Had to hold it in place as you can't line up the holes.

Got the turbo rotated today so I can run the intercooler.
Now I need to:
redo cooler hoses
blanking plates for inlet manifold
new feed to boost compensator (does the i/c version use the nipple just below the turbo side of the i/c?)
catch can
fit flywheel/clutch
reinstall in engine bay!

[MrRevhead]

Couple of pics to show why you must use the 3.1 oil cooler or some other relocation method. Holding the 2.8 one in place as you can't line up the holes to bolt it on

[MrRevhead]

Turbo oil drain is a cock up of a design!

But, it's pretty much ready to go back in! Still a few things I will have to sort out when it's in.
Catch can for one. And dipstick. The Bighorn dipstick does not match the MU manifold....
Does anyone know if the 3.1 dipstick matches the mount hole on the 2.8 MU manifold? I'd like to use the 3.1 dipsticks T piece for catch can drain.

Still need to get an exhaust section made to match the 2.5" downpipe to the stock exhaust. Full 2.5 exhaust will follow once it's in and running and sorted.

Might even start it this year

[MrRevhead]

These MU engines are a mongrel to get back in!
Didn't go well today and ran out of time... Have to have another go next weekend

[MrRevhead]

So, engine in place, gearbox in place.
Stick it in gear to torque up the crank pulley..... And I can turn the lot by hand. $%^&*! Any one want to buy a broken MU?

[geeves]

by turn the lot by hand do you mean the pulley or complete crank? Is it turning only one end of the crank? Is the gearbox turning?
I have a perfectly good 4jb1 here for the right price but you have to come up here and drive it home

[MrRevhead]

I mean the engine is turning over and clutch slipping. It's a brand new clutch

[isuzurob]

Did you put the clutch plate in the wrong way? or is the transfer box in neutal and gearbox in gear? easy as to get engine in if you leave the bottom tin sump off and oil pick up off

[MrRevhead]

I have to assume I fucked up the clutch as I won't know until its out again. Not taking the engine out. Too much hassle, will drop box If I can.

[MrRevhead]

Did you put the clutch plate in the wrong way? or is the transfer box in neutal and gearbox in gear? easy as to get engine in if you leave the bottom tin sump off and oil pick up off

Pretty sure transfer was in 2h. Should check it wasn't 4 though as front hubs are unlocked....

[geeves]

On a different car I had a new faulty clutch not work so the clutch was held disengaged. A non aproved or standard adjustment got it going but one day It just went bang and no disengage at all. Clutch had to be replaced

[MrRevhead]

Yeah it all looked the same as the old when I put it in. Free play in the fork so nothing amiss there.
Hopefully I just had it in 4wd and it was spinning in the hubs...

[geeves]

More likly something stopped the selector going into gear properly and its actualy in neutral. 4wd with hubs unlocked is also known as 2wd. The transfer case is a solid connection between front and back. I have had to drive home on more than one occasion after breaking driveshafts with the rear driveshaft removed the selector in 4wd and the hubs locked. (when the bearing cap on the rear u joint explodes at 100kph it feels like the rear wheels leave the road)

[MrRevhead]

With rear of shaft unbolted from the diff I can't turn the shaft by hand. But I can turn the engine by ratchet.

[isuzurob]

Were the splines on the clutch plate the same? you will also be able to turn it over with it in gear unless your handbrake is good enough to hold it

[MrRevhead]

Pretty sure splines matched. Well its chocked so won't go any where. Was pretty easy to turn over by hand

[geeves]

sounds like its not in gear. Double check and try a different gear

[MrRevhead]

So ran through all the checks again, in gear, in 4wd locked hubs etc etc. Still turns over by hand
So pulled the engine out again today. Such a hassle as I have to borrow a crane from work. And the MU is in my drive on a slight hill so is not an easy job.

Got it out and checked I had the plate around the right way. It is.
Checked I'd torqued up the cover bolts. I had.
Pull it off, was tricky as it was very tight on the dowels when installing but off it came. Can see where it's been spinning. Hmmmm
Put it alongside the old clutch. Look the same. Look closer.... Hmmm slight differences. get out the tape measure and verniers.
the plate on the new one is 5ish mm small dia! But that shouldn't make it turnable by hand....
Measure the pressure plate. Aha!!! The depth of the face of the part that pushes on the drive plate is 5mm shorter!!! Looks exactly the same, except the over all depth is shallower!!! Motherf*****!
So, Exedy are getting a rude phone call Monday